Bold patterns, indigo depth, and the unmistakable mark of the handmade
What Is Katazome?
Katazome (型染め) is a traditional Japanese dyeing method that uses rice-paste resist and hand-cut stencils to create repeating patterns on cotton, hemp, or silk.
It is one of Japan’s oldest and most enduring surface-design techniques—recognized by its graphic motifs, deep indigo tones, and rhythmic repeats.
Where Yuzen paints and Chusen pours, Katazome expresses pattern through the crisp geometry of the stencil, softened by the nuances of hand application.
“Katazome carries both precision and irregularity—the balance of a perfect stencil and the human hand that applies it.”
A Brief History of Katazome
Katazome has roots as early as the 8th century, but flourished during the Edo period (1603–1868) as commoners sought beautiful but regulated patterns for clothing and household textiles.
Kimonos, futon covers (futon-ji), workwear, and daily-use cloth were often decorated with:
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indigo-and-white patterns
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repeating nature motifs
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auspicious symbols
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geometric designs
Because the stencils allowed for repeatability, Katazome became a primary method for producing everyday patterned cloth long before mechanized printing.
Today, it remains a respected studio craft practiced by artisans across Japan.
How the Katazome Process Works
The process combines carving, resist work, and dyeing into one rhythmic sequence.
1. Stencils (Katagami) Are Hand-Cut
Made from layers of washi paper strengthened with fermented persimmon tannin (kakishibu), katagami stencils are artworks in themselves—thin, flexible, and remarkably durable.
2. Rice-Paste Resist Is Applied
A paste made from rice flour and bran is spread through the stencil using a flat spatula, creating a resist pattern on the surface of the cloth.
3. The Cloth Is Dyed
Traditionally, the fabric is immersed in indigo vats, though other natural dyes may be used.
The resist protects the design areas, allowing background color to deepen.
4. The Resist Is Washed Away
As the rice paste dissolves, the design emerges—clean, graphic, and slightly softened.
5. Multiple Rounds for Multiple Colors
Complex patterns may require repeated cycles of stencil application and dyeing.
Katazome’s tactile qualities—tiny cracks, soft edges, layered hues—are part of the charm.
Why Katazome Looks the Way It Does
Characteristics include:
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Graphic repeating motifs
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Visible stencil structure (grids, joins, bridges)
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Softened resist edges
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Deep indigo backgrounds
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Fine white or pale lines created by the rice-paste resist
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Hand-dyed variations that make every repeat slightly unique
Katazome strikes a balance between regularity and organic variation.
Where Katazome Is Found Today
Traditional uses:
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Kimono and underkimono
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Noren curtains
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Futon-ji (futon covers)
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Workwear such as noragi, momohiki, and hanten
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Household cloth
Contemporary applications:
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Textile art
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Limited-edition yardage
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Home décor
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Small accessories
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Studio editions by independent dyers
Katazome remains especially beloved among collectors of boro textiles and indigo enthusiasts.
How Katazome Compares to Other Dyeing Methods
Comparison of Japanese Dyeing & Printing Techniques
| Technique | Method | Visual Traits | Common Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Katazome (型染め) | Rice-paste resist brushed through stencils | Graphic motifs, crisp repeats, indigo depth | Household cloth, workwear, kimono |
| Chusen (注染) | Dye poured through stencils into folded cloth | Soft transitions, reversible color | Yukata, tenugui |
| Yuzen (友禅染め) | Hand-painted resist and dye | Painterly detail, shaded color | Formal kimono, art textiles |
| Nassen (捺染) | Screen/rotary printing on surface | Sharp lines, multi-color precision | Modern apparel, accessories |
Care & Handling
Katazome textiles are durable but deserve thoughtful care:
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Wash gently in cool water
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Use mild detergents
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Avoid bleach or optical brighteners
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Air dry to preserve indigo depth
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Expect softening and slight fading with time
These cloths were originally made for everyday use—properly cared for, they last generations.
Why Katazome Endures
Katazome is one of the few dyeing methods where the tool (the stencil) and the hand (the artisan) are equally visible.
Its patterns are structured yet warm, traditional yet modern, rooted in craft yet adaptable to contemporary design.
It continues to inspire textile artists around the world because it celebrates repetition, rhythm, and the beauty found in small variations.
View our collection of katazome cloth here.
